Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is famous for many things. Perhaps the most well-known would be the assassination of the Austrian Archduke, the immediate cause to the First World War. Some of you may remember the siege of the city a decade ago by the Bosnian Serbs. If nothing else those into the Cantonese pop culture may remember the song from quite some years ago called 'The Romeo and Juliet of Sarajevo', which was loosely based on a true story.

You may have noticed that 'Sarajevo' is named as the attraction. This is because the system doesn't allow me to name any cities after the country. But perhaps this isn't too far off the mark - the city as a whole, rather than any particular sights, is what really worth visiting.

To highlight but a few, the Tunnel Museum is a must-see. Situated near the airport (slightly out of town), it was the lifeline for the besieged city, and the exhibits serve as a stark reminder of the brutality suffered by the city. Right at the entrance was what was left by a bomb that failed to explode properly: see picture 1. In the city itself you may notice something similar on the road, but painted red: dubbed Sarajevo's Rose, it is painted to serve as a reminder that the bomb exploded there has taken the life of a citizen.

To visit the attraction, it is best to join a guided tour with the unofficial, lesser-known Tourism office in the city. It's either this, or take a taxi. Of course you can join the main Tourism Office's tour, but that's gonna cost you 14 Euros and not including the price of the entrance fee (last time I checked). The book is not with me at the moment, but the alternative tourism office is mentioned in Lonely Planet. If the book's not to your taste, just ask at your hotel, though you may have better luck asking a hostel owner. The guide/owner, Sid, is a really knowledgeable person who did a degree in History in Vienna. We paid 25 Euros per person for a half-day tour of the city. Throughout the tour he will point out everything worth noting, be it historical or quirky. I am sure he can explain the sights much better than I do.

What about safety? It is actually a really safe place to visit, provided that you do not go out of your way to get yourself into trouble. Also stay within the touristy parts of the city after dark. Guys should remember NEVER to stare at anyone, because in Sarajevo that means you want a fight, apparently. And yes outside of the capital men do fight to death in knife duels on specific dates, so it's not the best idea to provoke them.

Also perhaps it is best to stay in Sarajevo proper, instead of the Bosnian Serb dominated (New) Sarajevo (see Picture 2) after dark. Unfortunately the younger generation could be quite violent (in both Sarajevos, actually), perhaps the product of a cocktail of socio-economical problems. 

But is it all bad? No. Cliche, but where there is wanton destruction, there is also hope. Right after being swore at, and was told by some locals how hopeless the younger generation is, we bumped into this group of teens (Picture 3). Contrary to what we were told, they are good kids who work reasonably hard at school, speaks some English, and are not filled to the brim with hate because of the city's sufferings. Rather they're fun-loving kids with a positive outlook. I'm relieved - perhaps the country will have a chance to heal itself?

Before you ask, I'm not asking you to visit a war-ravaged slum. Contrary to the picture I have been painting so far, parts of the old town has a decidedly Austro-Hungarian flair, and it is certainly a nice place to stroll (see, Picture 4). Nor is the people unfriendly - the friendliest hostel owner I have EVER met was in Mostar, another city of the country. You may find most people's English wanting though.

To get into the country, the easiest way would be to take a bus from Croatia. I took the bus from Split, Croatia (served by www.easyjet.com from numerous destinations, e.g. London, Bristol), stayed a night in Mostar, and continued towards Sarajevo. Just buy tickets at the local bus station the day before to be safe.

So what to try for food? Ask for the borek/burek/boereg (Picture 5), which is some kind of baked pastry. Its usually filled with meat, spinach, or cheese. At about a few Euros each (it's so cheap I can't remember how much!) you'll be surprised how tasty and filling it is. It's better than any touristy restaurant because heck, this is what the locals eat. If you want a touristy restaurant (which actually was quite nice) ask for the 'Inaj Kuca' (House of Spite), just across the bridge from the National Library. They've got some nice authentic looking dishes, some of them taste good. The Bosnian stew (Picture 6) is one of them.

Sarajevo has always been a city of contradictions. Once the city that divided the West and the East Roman Empire, its people are still struggling with their identity. Having 3 presidents serving on rotation that represents the three, risking over-simplification, sub-ethnic groups is but the tip of the iceberg of the problem the nation faces. This is what makes the city such a fascinating place to visit - grand buildings standing next to cheap housing that used to be sniper nests of the enemy, mosques standing side by side with synagogue and Catholic AND Orthodox Churches (and did I mention that 70%+ of the population are not religious?), uber modern skyscrapers next to sealed off, mined areas from the war, exemplary hospitality in stark contrast with juvenile delinquency. 

For me travelling is perhaps less about individual attractions than the overall experience. If you're done with the standard '歐遊' fare and are not impressed, this certainly will.

To be very honest Sarajevo, with all that history, can be quite overwhelming. But the country is not just about the capital. When in Sarajevo we took a day trip with Green Visions (www.greenvisions.ba) to the countryside and the Rakitnica Canyon is simply breathtaking (Picture 1).

I've also mentioned Mostar a few times in the Sarajevo review. As I've said it's an essential stop between Sarajevo and Split / Dubrovnik (unless you don't mind a 6/7 hour coach ride at one go). But it's more than a place to stretch your legs - it's an attraction in its own right! With an elegant old bridge (described as the 'petrified moon') that is the symbol of the town since time immemorial (see, Picture 2), a lovely cobblestoned old town (see Picture 3), not to mention loads of quirky stuff, you can easily stay a day or two. According to the hostel owner some random guy stayed three weeks here (not recommended, though).

Where to stay: Hostel Majdas, Franje Milicevica 39, Mostar. Reserve a value-for-money room at www.hostelbookers.com. The owner Majdas is a lady who loves playing host to travellers from around the globe. Try not to ask for too many things because she will try VERY HARD to exceed your expectations. When we ask for information on Sarajevo she actually gave us a book to keep. Needless to say cheap taxi, etc. will be arranged for your departure. And make sure you let her know when are you arriving for she is more than happy to arrange for FREE pickup at the bus station (wow). Also to my pleasant surprise we were received with apple tea and homemade cakes, while being introduced to the city and its sights. She will also tell you where to go for a meal and please heed her advice as it's quite a nice place with a really quaint view of the old town (Picture 4).. and I can't remember the name of the establishment.

Tip for your Itinerary: the same hostel offers a day trip to the beautiful Bosnian countryside, with panoramic views and a breathtaking waterfall. There will be opportunities to swim and I think kayak as well. I would recommend staying a night en route to Sarajevo and check out the old town, then stay another night when you're done with Sarajevo and is heading back to Croatia so that you can do this trip as well. The coach will be stopping in Mostar on your way back anyway, and I assure you a trip to Bosnia will not be complete without visiting it's countryside, known for its beauty as well as the place for cheap outdoor activities / extreme sports.

Where to drink: ALI BABA (Picture 5). On the Eastern Side of the old town, it's a well-established lounge/club situated inside a cave, no less. Try not to let the dripping water spoil your drink, but perhaps some may say that's part of the experience. One piece of advice: the prices of the drinks are printed next to the entrance. Pick one and remember the price because some of the staff may try to rip you off.

For history buffs: walk the front line of the battle between the Croats and the Bosniaks (Picture 6). I think they sort of preserved it, or maybe it's just that they have yet to acquire the funds needed for reconstruction. It's real sad seeing all those grand buildings (some with facades and stuff) in ruins. Do resist the temptation to venture inside one though as the buildings could be mined and unexploded ordinances could mean you will have to sacrifice a leg (literally) for your curiosity.

I shall end this note with a disclaimer: the bridge was rebuilt. But that doesn't mean it's not the real thing - after the war they dug up every block that comprised of the bridge and rebuilt the whole thing with the original stuff. See the Bridge Museum right by the Eastern entrance of the bridge (it's free) for the footage of how a Croatian shell has shattered the town's symbol, and how after the war different factions of the belligerents put aside their differences to reconstruct it. With the country's politics still in turmoil, perhaps the extremists/separatists can do with a history lesson, encapsulated in but two words, as carved in stone (Picture 7): don't forget. 

I know, I know. Most of the time when we go travelling we seek not to be enlightened / impressed / intellectually challenged. In fact we would prefer to let the mind wander and simply enjoy life. This is precisely why before and after our trip to Bosnia & Herzegovina we were in Croatia. And goodness I am sure for some of us heaven on earth can't be better than this.

Dubrovnik (Picture 1) was only recently named as such. It used to be Ragusa, a name that reminds us of its Italian heritage (Dalmatia used to be part of Italy. Let's not go into the details), and you'll still see the name everywhere. In fact, the reason of my ending up in Croatia is that I was told the country has 'everything you expect from Italy, with a much lower price tag'.

Where to Stay: if you're rich, stay in Hilton (www.hilton.co.uk/dubrovnik), which is just outside the old town. If you're not, stay in Hostel Marker (www.hostelworld.com), which is more or less across the road from Hilton. And believe me you'll love it. We stayed in this really nice 4-star apartment and Mr. Marker (forgot his first name, sorry mate), the host, is well-travelled (studied in Germany) and cares more about you having an enjoyable stay than your money. We actually got a discount because I'm short of Croatian Kuna (the currency) as it's my last day in the country. Please don't try to cheat him. You can also hire motorboats / kayaks / taxis through him for a discounted price.

Where to Eat: anywhere, really. It can't go very wrong. But if you must know, I liked 'Poklisar'. I can't quite remember what food I've had, but the atmosphere is superb, with this guy (see, Picture 2) doing his jazz (music), not to mention having a nice view of the harbour. Just walk all the way to the harbourside of the old town and you'll find it. The other restaurants along the harbour are quite good too, and while some locals told me the price was like 40% higher than before already, it is still really affordable as the locals form a sizeable per cent of the custom as well, and quoting the exact words to avoid offending people 'most of us are not exactly rich'.

For pasta, try 'Toni's'. On the main thoroughfare, it's the 3rd right. I think. I'm not sure, but as you will see they have a nice little canvas on which the restaurants along that particular side street will be listed. So look for it.

Where to Drink: If you have money to spare do try Gil's (see, Picture 3). The menu didn't strike my fancy (English cuisine, of all things) so I passed, but having a drink would surely be a romantic way to end the night.

My personal favourite is this 'hole in the wall' (see, Picture 4). Ask the locals for directions because there isn't even a sign at the entrance, which is literally a hole in the wall. It did say 'NO TOPLESS, NO NUDIST' though. It's not the first time I had a drink there and it will certainly not be my last. And I'll spare you from needless theatrics - the picture says it all.

What to Do: Getting lost in the winding alleyways is fun. You'll also get loads of decent photo opportunities. Just be as lazy as a cat (to learn how, see Picture 5) and you can't go far wrong. But if you must know, visiting the city's walls is easiest the highlight of the visit. I'm not the first one to say this - I just followed Lonely Planet's advice and I came back a happy man. There's actually a cafe up on the walls so take your time. The city beach is good too, way better than the city beach in Split. Before you ask, Lokrum Island isn't worth it, unless you're a nudist who can't wait a long ferry ride to get tanned. You're better off taking the ferry to, say, Hvar (more about it later). 

Sounds good? Course it does. Look no further. Take a seat, grab a drink, and do some people watching in one of the quieter little squares (see, Picture 7). Those who are bored of Dubrovnik are bored of life.

About 2/3 hours by ferry from Split / Dubrovnik, Hvar Island is the ideal getaway, the island paradise that attracts even royalty. With decent hotels and lovely restaurants and bars its not very hard to soak up the atmosphere, enjoy life, and simply not want to leave. Photos tell you nothing about the feel of the place but I guess that's the next best thing (see, Picture 1).  

Where to eat: if you want cosy sofas, with views of the endless ocean to go with your food, try the B.B. club (see, Picture 2), a hotel restaurant. It's just down the road (see, Picture 3) towards where the land ends and the sea begins.

What to do: apparently you'll get nice views if you hike up to the Hvar Castle, which would take the best part of an hour according to the locals. But as we went in summer we opted instead to hire a motorboat - no licence of any sort is required, and the boat is yours for the day for but 350 kunas. You can hire it for 1 hour (120 kunas) or 2 hours (240 kunas) of course but I strongly recommend you to hire it for the day with you friends - it can easily take 5/6 so it's not expensive at all, less than 10 pounds per person.

Do that and your day is definitely going to get better (unless it's gonna rain - do check before hiring a boat!). Head out to outlying islands for a truly magical experience. Scarcely a soul is around and you can simply pick an empty / next-to-empty beach for yourselves (see, Picture 4). You can also do island hopping as the farthest island you can go is actually a few hours away. Be careful, though, as all you're gonna have is a map on a card and I have found it quite hard to know where we are, except by asking people by the shore. Also try not to end up on a FKK beach unless you're planning to go topless - it's usually a good indicator that a beach is FKK if you actually see people topless. That's how I tell..

There is actually a seafood restaurant amongst the islands - it's one of the islands nearer to Hvar Town, by the Milne Beach. There are also a few bars scattered around. Ask the people you hire the boat from for details. Incidentally there are a few of them right by the harbour, you can't miss them. As you head back to Hvar Town in the evening try not to forget taking a few shots of the town itself - it certainly doesn't take a pro to do a decent photo (see, Picture 5).

Personally I'd prefer Hvar and Dubrovnik over Split, but if you're travelling around the Balkans you'll end up here at some point, so I figured I should take the time to give you the yays and nays.

Where to eat: try 'Posejdon' (Picture 1), within the Diocletian Palace grounds. Good place for seafood and gelato.

Where NOT to eat: if you have a copy of Lonely Planet you'll notice that they're recommending a place where the host 'displays her own brand of hospitality' and is a gathering place for 'misfits'. For me overall it wasn't a very pleasant experience so perhaps its best to not trust LP this time.

What to do: check out the view from the promenade (see, Picture 2), especially at sunset (see, Picture 3). It is also where people go at night (see, Picture 4) and if you're lucky you'll catch a cheesy band show (see, Picture 5).

What NOT to do: unless you're real desparate for a dip, do not visit the beach on the eastern end of the city. The sand's alright but there's an awful lot of people, and the water is not very clean. Take the ferry and head to the outlying islands (say Hvar), or head down to Dubrovnik. I was told that the beaches on the west side of the beaches are better, but as I wasn't there I can't verify the claim.

But if you're travelling from Slovenia to Split or Dubrovnik you're bound to make a stop here. If you're staying the night, please don't stay in Hostel Lika unless you're real short, or if you don't mind curling up in a bed a size smaller than you really are. Also the management is certainly not the friendliest I've seen. As if that's not bad enough on your way there there will be huge dogs barking at you. Yes they're safely locked up but I jumped everytime.

The one thing I liked about Zagreb is the fact that it happened to be a university town. Students are real nice and one happened to recommend this budget restaurant 'Capuciner', just across the street from the city's cathedral (see, Picture 1). We tried, among others, the risotto (see, Picture 2) and the blue cheese spaghetti (see, Picture 3). We loved it and so will you.