To be very honest Sarajevo, with all that history, can be quite overwhelming. But the country is not just about the capital. When in Sarajevo we took a day trip with Green Visions (www.greenvisions.ba) to the countryside and the Rakitnica Canyon is simply breathtaking (Picture 1).

I've also mentioned Mostar a few times in the Sarajevo review. As I've said it's an essential stop between Sarajevo and Split / Dubrovnik (unless you don't mind a 6/7 hour coach ride at one go). But it's more than a place to stretch your legs - it's an attraction in its own right! With an elegant old bridge (described as the 'petrified moon') that is the symbol of the town since time immemorial (see, Picture 2), a lovely cobblestoned old town (see Picture 3), not to mention loads of quirky stuff, you can easily stay a day or two. According to the hostel owner some random guy stayed three weeks here (not recommended, though).

Where to stay: Hostel Majdas, Franje Milicevica 39, Mostar. Reserve a value-for-money room at www.hostelbookers.com. The owner Majdas is a lady who loves playing host to travellers from around the globe. Try not to ask for too many things because she will try VERY HARD to exceed your expectations. When we ask for information on Sarajevo she actually gave us a book to keep. Needless to say cheap taxi, etc. will be arranged for your departure. And make sure you let her know when are you arriving for she is more than happy to arrange for FREE pickup at the bus station (wow). Also to my pleasant surprise we were received with apple tea and homemade cakes, while being introduced to the city and its sights. She will also tell you where to go for a meal and please heed her advice as it's quite a nice place with a really quaint view of the old town (Picture 4).. and I can't remember the name of the establishment.

Tip for your Itinerary: the same hostel offers a day trip to the beautiful Bosnian countryside, with panoramic views and a breathtaking waterfall. There will be opportunities to swim and I think kayak as well. I would recommend staying a night en route to Sarajevo and check out the old town, then stay another night when you're done with Sarajevo and is heading back to Croatia so that you can do this trip as well. The coach will be stopping in Mostar on your way back anyway, and I assure you a trip to Bosnia will not be complete without visiting it's countryside, known for its beauty as well as the place for cheap outdoor activities / extreme sports.

Where to drink: ALI BABA (Picture 5). On the Eastern Side of the old town, it's a well-established lounge/club situated inside a cave, no less. Try not to let the dripping water spoil your drink, but perhaps some may say that's part of the experience. One piece of advice: the prices of the drinks are printed next to the entrance. Pick one and remember the price because some of the staff may try to rip you off.

For history buffs: walk the front line of the battle between the Croats and the Bosniaks (Picture 6). I think they sort of preserved it, or maybe it's just that they have yet to acquire the funds needed for reconstruction. It's real sad seeing all those grand buildings (some with facades and stuff) in ruins. Do resist the temptation to venture inside one though as the buildings could be mined and unexploded ordinances could mean you will have to sacrifice a leg (literally) for your curiosity.

I shall end this note with a disclaimer: the bridge was rebuilt. But that doesn't mean it's not the real thing - after the war they dug up every block that comprised of the bridge and rebuilt the whole thing with the original stuff. See the Bridge Museum right by the Eastern entrance of the bridge (it's free) for the footage of how a Croatian shell has shattered the town's symbol, and how after the war different factions of the belligerents put aside their differences to reconstruct it. With the country's politics still in turmoil, perhaps the extremists/separatists can do with a history lesson, encapsulated in but two words, as carved in stone (Picture 7): don't forget.