Picture 1: enjoy a Tuborg and more at Posejdon
Picture 3: the view at sunset
Picture 4: the promenade by night
Picture 5: be entertained
Personally I'd prefer Hvar and Dubrovnik over Split, but if you're travelling around the Balkans you'll end up here at some point, so I figured I should take the time to give you the yays and nays.
Where to eat: try 'Posejdon' (Picture 1), within the Diocletian Palace grounds. Good place for seafood and gelato.
Where NOT to eat: if you have a copy of Lonely Planet you'll notice that they're recommending a place where the host 'displays her own brand of hospitality' and is a gathering place for 'misfits'. For me overall it wasn't a very pleasant experience so perhaps its best to not trust LP this time.
What to do: check out the view from the promenade (see, Picture 2), especially at sunset (see, Picture 3). It is also where people go at night (see, Picture 4) and if you're lucky you'll catch a cheesy band show (see, Picture 5).
What NOT to do: unless you're real desparate for a dip, do not visit the beach on the eastern end of the city. The sand's alright but there's an awful lot of people, and the water is not very clean. Take the ferry and head to the outlying islands (say Hvar), or head down to Dubrovnik. I was told that the beaches on the west side of the beaches are better, but as I wasn't there I can't verify the claim.
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